Vienna 06/08

"Vienna will wait for you...but its trains won't..."

So far Vienna has been my favorite place city and although I've only traveled to 3 so far, the Austrian capital has far surpassed my expectations. Ljubljana, Zagreb, Berlin, and Brussels will have to work hard to follow.
The Viennese culture here is so lively and lived in--centuries old baroque and classical monuments juxtapose contemporary architecture as a blend of the old and new that in no way feels forced or contrived. The problem I had with Prague was the monuments felt they were for the tourists while here they are incorporated into everyday life. While wandering the first night here, we stumbled upon the museum quartier, packed with people drinking, relaxing, hanging out wiht others. No doubt some of them were tourists who like us came upon this oasis but the atmosphere was natural as if the Austrians did this every Tuesday night at midnight. It's no surprise that museums aren't reduced to shrines of the past, frequented only on school trips and because of sheer boredom. As a former intellectual capital of the world, home to thought giants like Sigmund Freud and Amadeus Mozart, Vienna has in possession one of the greatest collections of art and a museum for basically every niche. The Leopold has the largest collection of native Egon Schiele drawings and paintings on display while at Mumoc contemporary artists like Asper Jorn highlight their current summer 08 exhibition 'Bad painting good art'--an amazing title and showcase btdubs.
But what really made me fall in love with Vienna (other than the gelato) was the jazz festival held in front of a cathedral. Picture this: 500 people watching a100 ft tall television screen showing the best jazz guitarist you've ever heard playing with a philharmonic symphony with gothic arches, gargoyles, and a 20 story tower in the background--no as an integrated part of the festival supporting the television screen itself. Where else but in Vienna?
Currently I'm sitting in front of the Belvadere, slightly frustrated at missing the second train in a row now (we're 0-2) but my anger is slowly subsiding. Klimt's 'The Kiss' right in front of me doesn't hurt. I only wish 2 things: 1) future internet connections will be more consistent so I can keep you up to date better and 2) you could expereince everything I have lately with me.

Auf Wiedersehen