"Alice, how do you really expect everyone to eat organically and sustainably?"
My bff Alice. Picture courtesy of Wikipedia
People either love or hate Alice Waters. She's infamous in the food world as the advocate for eating locally, sustainably, and organically. Logically it makes sense--foods produced close by are processed less since they aren't shipped across countries in freezer trucks, have a much lower carbon foot print, and support the local economy. Organically means a more controlled environment with (ideally) no pesticide and herbicide use and no antibiotics/growth hormones for livestock. It's healthier. And tastier. The only bitter melon I can tolerate is the one from my mom's garden.
Obviously there are some fallbacks. Eating locally means no tomatoes or strawberries in the dead of winter for most people. Also from anyone who has been grocery shopping knows that with the organic label comes a pretty painful markup, around 10-40%. As a poor and struggling college student, I can't afford that. $4 for a pint of blueberries at the Wooster Square farmer's market is a luxury. The option to eat locally and sustainably may not be available for those who rely on large supermarket chains, or worse small corner marts.
If we're so focused on restoring the health of America, reducing obesity and diabetes rates, then we need to target those most susceptible--the socioeconomically disadvantaged. Really, eating sustainably isn't a viable option or a concern for those making $17k a year.
I come from a fairly gritty town (Bridgeport, CT) where for 16 years I had never heard the words organic uttered outside of chemistry class. These concerns were relegated to fussy middle class housewives who were merely jumping on the latest culinary craze. Good marketing I thought.
Feasible? No. When one gallon of milk costs $3 while another costs $5 and minimizing costs is the highest priority when you're feeding a large family, it's a no-brainer.
In many ways that's why people hate Alice Waters. She's an idealist (after Obama's election she tried contacting him to push for a healthier food policy and sustainable gardens all over the country) but she's a little out of touch with reality. Not everyone can or wants to eat through farmer's markets or in season. When there's a strong correlation between poverty and obesity, these people are also the ones suffering because of it.
Alice is trying to change the way we see foods. She brought the sustainability focus here to Yale, establishing the Yale Sustainable Food Project to represent the university's stake in our health and wellbeing. Every day there's at least one dish that's made entirely of sustainable and local ingredients. When in season, almost 50% of the produce is locally sourced (because really you can't find bananas in New England). It's a nice change of pace from the regular burger and fries. But we again run into the problem of healthy foods being only accessible to the privileged.

Yale's farm. That's right, we have our own sustainable farm.
So what do we do to make people want good food? Some people claim reduce government subsidies for major farms, or educate the kids regarding respect for food (read more about the Edible Schoolyard), or even punish those who buy the bad stuff with higher prices but these are still ideas, not policies.
I woke up before I could get the answer from Alice. When I fell back asleep, I was off killing zombies with my Blastoise.
For more info on Alice Waters, sustainability, or Yale's practices, use Google.
